Day  38                                  Seisia  to Cape York

Distance:                             35.09km

Av speed:                            15.5 km/h

Total Elevation:                  256m

Calories:                              1456 per person

Weather:                             Mild (25*C) but windy

Well  after what seemed like an eternity, Day 38 finally rolled around and low and behold we were still on schedule and heading for the Cape!

Given the short ride, we took the liberty of a 730am sleep-in, before finally making tracks a little before 10am.

The road to the Cape was more red corrugated gravel, but knowing that we were nearly there meant we rode over the bumps as if they were mere cushions.

As we closed on the Cape we noticed a significant change in the habitat, with the arid forest being replaced by dense jungle (rainforest even?).

Shortly before noon we hit the ‘end of the road’ so to speak and were left with a ‘mere’ 400m walk to the Tip. Unfortunately, the said walk was over rocky terrain, cautioning one returning tourist to tell us there was no way we would get the bikes there and to leave them at the carpark... clearly she didn’t know the crap we’d been through and that there was no way we wouldn’t be getting a picture of the bikes at the Tip sign!!!

After 38 days, when we arrived at the Tip there was the obvious sense of relief, excitement and pride... but maybe not the unbridled emotion which you’d expect.... at least there were no tears that either of us could see!!

We were fortunate to have the Tip to ourselv es for 45 minutes, giving us ample opportunity to soak in the experien ce and take 300 photos... hopefully there’s one worthy of a picture frame on someone’s mantelpiece!

It was then a matter of jumping back on the bloody bikes and riding the 35km back to Seisia.... hopefully the last km we’ll ever have to do on them!

With time, comes perspective... so in the next day or two we’ll each post our final thoughts (and thankyous) on the trip, so stay tuned, the ride may be complete but there is more blogging to come.

Also for those worried about our return, Verge has done a spectacular job (about her 50^th one of the trip) and arranged for us to stowaway on a freighter from Seisia to Weipa on Thursday so look out Melbourne cause well be back on Saturday!

Day  37                                  Side of the Southern Bypass Road to Seisia (1m)

Distance:                             145.26

Av speed:                            13.2 km/h

Total Elevation:                   854m

Calories:                              4722 per person

Weather:                             Humid and hot (35*C)

After a restless sleep attributable to the rather ordinary campsite (wet sand and little shelter from the wind and rain), we woke at 5am and managed to have breakfast and the tents packed away by 6.15am... a positive start to the day.

At the 20km mark, Chris stopped and waited for Jon for the traditional morning break. After 5 and then 10 minutes, Jon didn’t appear... he’d only been a couple of mins back 5km ago! Chris turned the bike around and set off to find him, running into him about 3km down the road... unfortunately Jon was walking... sans bike. Jon’s chain had once again broken and was unable to be fixed, we chatted and made the decision that Jon would hitch to the Jardine River Ferry, wait for Chris and then hitch to Seisia to fix the bike.... making up the lost distance by riding this part of the route later in the week. He might be doing it with a limp however, as his ankle connected with the big ring when his chain snapped, leaving Jon with a nasty and painful wound.

Chris continued on, knowing that he had another  25km to the start of the Northern Bypass Road, 55km to the Jardine River Ferry and a final 50km to Seisia... a long long day, not made any easier given the rising humidity.

Fortunately, soon after recommencing there was 15km of sealed roads, meaning that time was swift and Chris was able to reach the beginning of the NBR by 10.15am. Less fortunately, the NBR has a reputation for some of the worst road conditions on the Cape... and theyre well deserved. By far the worst and hardest corrugations we’ve encountered, not made any easier because the corrugations are mountains of sands... meaning that you soon lose traction and have to walk. In the first hour, Chris covered a little over 8km, drinking 2.5L of water in the same time due to the ridiculous humidity. Even then, it felt like he’d sweated out much much more! It was about this time that Jon went past, allowing Chris to give him the big heavy locks he’d been carrying and the chance to restock his water. A couple touring the Cape who we have now seen on 3 occasions also passed, stopping for moral support and to tend to Chris old wounds (after a few hours of sweat and sand his knee and elbow scabs weren’t looking too healthy apparently!). It was also suggested to deflate the tyres even further to assist with scaling the sand.

Chris continued on, but things didn’t improve. He called home (thanks to the Satellite Phone from Epirbhire.com.au ... don’t ever come up here without one!!!)  to check the status of the night’s accommodation and the moral support was just what the doctor ordered and he was soon back on the bike... and low and behold the sandy corrugations also soon ended! This allowed Chris to perform the time trial of his life... 45km, sandy and gravel roads, an undulating profile, 50kg of gear, stifling humidity and all covered in a little over 2 hours... even Jon was shocked to see him so soon when he pulled into the Jardine River Ferry a little after 2pm!

Interestingly, about 5km prior to the JRF, Chris was passed by the two dirt bikers he had warned about the fire on the OTT the previous day. They waved him down for a chat and said the smoke was unbearable and the visibility was limited to 5m, with the real threat they would have to get off the bikes to avoid smoke inhalation. It certainly vindicated the decision we had made to turn back as the riders said it would have been impossible for us at the speeds we would have been travelling!

Anyway, the JRF has a bad reputation... this probably happens when you charge cars $88 to cross a 12m wide river!! Fortunately, from chatting to the operator, Jon had managed to have the cost waived on account of the blokes efforts. Chris took the opportunity to smash a diet coke and 3 paddle pops, before the two of them grabbed the ferry (Jon having organised a lift to Seisia with the dirt bike riders and their support vehicle).

Chris continued on, pleased that these roads were much better than earlier in the day (albeit still painfully slow goat tracks by normal standards) and managed to push himself to the limit, arriving at Seisia about 5.50pm. A huge and difficult day, leaving him exhausted but with a very rewarding feeling.

Another great feeling was when Jon told him he’d organised a night at the pub (this area is a dry area so alcohol can’t be bought). Unfortunately, we soon found out that the said pub was 3km away and with neither of us in a state to walk there, we settled for the local fish chips and some iced teas... before coming home to successfully fix Jon’s bike.

A sleepless night awaits, as we set off tomorrow morning for the final 35km(ish) to Cape York... and to think only 37 days ago we were at the southernmost point! Here’s hoping we can get a lift back... to the Bamaga Pub!

123.8km. 

Started old Telegraph track before turning back due to bushfires. 

Now on bypass road, very rough, 140km tomorrow. 

2 days from the tip.

Day  36                                  Moreton Telegraph Station to side of the Southern Bypass Road (130m)

Distance:                             124.11km

Av speed:                            11.2 km/h

Total Elevation:                   590m

Calories:                              3886 per person

Weather:                             Warm 30*c

Having enjoyed an amazing meal courtesy of our very friendly and supportive hosts, Brett and Kathy, we woke at 5.30am with the intention of getting an early start.

As the sun rose around 6.15am, we prepared to set off, only to find that Jon’s yak wheel had deflated over the night. Making the necessary change, we were soon heading off towards the front gate... when the spare tube also deflated. Reviewing the tyre we diagnosed a split and made use of the spare kiddy bike tyre which Chris had carried in the bottom of his trailer for the last 36 days... it was kind of rewarding to actually use it in the end!

We then headed off on more undulating red gravel roads for the Bramwell Junction and the start of the Old Telegraph Track. About 5km from the Junction we passed more wildfires by the side of the road and ascending a large hill we could see a significant bushfire up ahead.

We stopped briefly at the Bramwell Junction Roadhouse to stock up on sandwiches for lunch and Chris took the chance to ask the lady behind the counter as to whether the bushfire would impact on the Old Telegraph Track. “Nah itwould have went through the OTT last night” was the response. So Chris pointed behind the fire and asked if that was the direction the OTT took. “Nah it goes that way (pointing in front of the fire)”. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... slightly concerning!!

We took off to see how it looked and managed to complete the first 5km in a little under 45 minutes... this included two amazing river crosses which boggled the mind as to how a 4x4 drive would get down and then up the banks! At this point we were passed by some motorists who said that the OTT was awash with flame and smoke further up and it would be unwise to continue. We quickly discussed it and made the difficult (but correct) decision to turn back. We made sure we warned some dirt bikers as they sped past us. Interestingly, as we rode the 5km back to the Junction, huge amounts of track had been burned in the previous 45 minutes since we’d first past!

After again refuelling, we set off from the Roadhouse on the Southern Bypass Road. The Bypass Roads are much longer and less direct, designed to avoid all the obstacles which the OTT provides... in other words, a nice route for all the grey nomads and their caravans! Ironically, the Bypass Roads (over 230km) have a terrible reputation for corrugation and sand, meaning that for us it wouldn’t really be any easier than the OTT... and also longer.

We set ourselves the target of knocking over 70km before dark (a great result given the 2 hours we’d earlier lost) and found a place to camp by the side of the road. The wind howled and there was steady rain throughout the night.

82km, short day.

Jon saw a Monitor Lizard. 

At Moreton Telegraph Station tonight. 

Heading to famous old telegraph track tomorrow - crazy 4 wheel drive roads. 

48 hours until arrive at Northern most town in Australia.

Day  35                                  Side of road 110km north of Coen to Moreton Telegraph Station (185m)

Distance:                             75.88km

Av speed:                            13.7 km/h

Total Elevation:                  205m

Calories:                             2008 per person

Weather:                             Warm 30*c

Knowing that we had a *shortish* day ahead of us, but that two very tough and long days into Seisa followed,  we made an early start with the hope of being able to use the afternoon to get some R+R.

As we rode past the Weipa turnoff a little after 830am, we saw the two other cycle tourers whose tracks we have seen in the sandy roads the last few days. It turns out they are Austrians, one of whom lives in Mount Garnet (we passed through there about 12 days ago now.... so long ago!) and theyre also riding up to the Tip... albeit at a much more leisurely speed!

Today’s terrain was much like the last few days, with red gravelly roads and light timber forests. Interestingly, we passed through a few burnt out areas today, some of which were still smouldering. We’re unsure whether they were planned burns, however, we’re glad they weren’t blazing when we were passing by!

The only real moment of interest of the day came when Jon spotted a ‘big 1m lizard’... shocked that such things exist! Fortunately, Chris put him right on all things Monitor Lizards... just another Aussie creature that can give you a nasty bite!

About 1pm we arrived at the Moreton Telegraph Station, where our hosts have spoilt us with a comfortable permatent and promises of Spaghetti Bolognese for dinner! If only all our stops were like this!!

Tomorrow we head off to tackle the Old Telegraph Track, a well known 4x4 mecca and one of the toughest roads to navigate in Australia. It will no doubt be a huge challenge, but we hope the thought that we could be in Seisa within 48 hours will give us the energy and willpower to get the job done in just two days!

Day  34                                  Coen to side of the road 110km north of Coen

Distance:                             110.65km

Av speed:                            12.5 km/h

Total Elevation:                  640m

Calories:                             3281 per person

Weather:                             Warm 30*c

Unsure of the roads ahead of us, we woke early and had a hearty breakfast of spaghetti and scrambled eggs courtesy of our hosts, the Exchange Hotel. Karl Stefanovic also took the time to remind us it was the start of spring and the first day of September... technically the third month UpUnder 2011 has spanned!!

We can’t thank the guys at the Exchange enough.... they fed us, housed us, gave us gifts and donations... a very generous bunch of people and a great place to stay. Get yourself there one day!

To our great delight, the first 22km of roads were actually sealed! Wooohoo... only 43km of the horrible roads people had been telling us about!

As we suspected, it turns out the roads were horrible for cars but not for bikes. Always able to find a small line of rock or gravel amongst the sand, we found the going easy and were pleasantly surprised with the terrain. It was also reasonably flat, meaning we made good time. The only weird occurrence were two blokes driving up behind us in a Rav4, taking zillions of pictures and videos of us, before then turning around and driving back where they came from... w-e-i-r-d!

Shortly after noon we arrived at the Archer River Roadhouse, 65km north of Coen. Arriving first, Chris ordered himself an Archer Burger (Hamburger, pineapple, beetroot, bacon, onion, lettuce, tomato and bbq sauce) and apple pie and icecream to carbo load for the remainder of the day! He also spotted the local copper who had passed them earlier in the day and asked whether he’d oblige in putting the wind up Jon for not wearing his helmet. Of course, he jumped at the chance!

As Jon rolled into the roadhouse with his helmet around the handlebars, the cops rolled out, lights and sirens blazing, pulling the poor pom over and threatening a $100+ fine. With customs officers also at the roadhouse, they were also brought into it, requesting passports and bag checks. Everyone at the roadhouse (well except Jon) had a good laugh and it was a nice relaxing break before we went back out onto the road. Although, the light natured humour was nearly spoiled by the roadhouse owner who seeing the power exerted by the police, figured he’d get in on the act and had quite a weird tanty about Chris parking his bike inside the fenceline against a palm tree... seemed like the logical place to everyone else but this bloke!

Knowing we’d be camping out, we took the opportunity to load up with 10L+ of water, meaning that our speeds dropped after the break, due to the added weight and undulating territory.

Around 430pm, with the Weipa turnoff  only a few km up the road if we got into trouble, we found a nice sheltered area to pitch our tents about 100m in from the road. Notwithstanding the thousands of rocks and downward slope, it was a pleasant spot to spend the night.