Day  37                                  Side of the Southern Bypass Road to Seisia (1m)

Distance:                             145.26

Av speed:                            13.2 km/h

Total Elevation:                   854m

Calories:                              4722 per person

Weather:                             Humid and hot (35*C)

After a restless sleep attributable to the rather ordinary campsite (wet sand and little shelter from the wind and rain), we woke at 5am and managed to have breakfast and the tents packed away by 6.15am... a positive start to the day.

At the 20km mark, Chris stopped and waited for Jon for the traditional morning break. After 5 and then 10 minutes, Jon didn’t appear... he’d only been a couple of mins back 5km ago! Chris turned the bike around and set off to find him, running into him about 3km down the road... unfortunately Jon was walking... sans bike. Jon’s chain had once again broken and was unable to be fixed, we chatted and made the decision that Jon would hitch to the Jardine River Ferry, wait for Chris and then hitch to Seisia to fix the bike.... making up the lost distance by riding this part of the route later in the week. He might be doing it with a limp however, as his ankle connected with the big ring when his chain snapped, leaving Jon with a nasty and painful wound.

Chris continued on, knowing that he had another  25km to the start of the Northern Bypass Road, 55km to the Jardine River Ferry and a final 50km to Seisia... a long long day, not made any easier given the rising humidity.

Fortunately, soon after recommencing there was 15km of sealed roads, meaning that time was swift and Chris was able to reach the beginning of the NBR by 10.15am. Less fortunately, the NBR has a reputation for some of the worst road conditions on the Cape... and theyre well deserved. By far the worst and hardest corrugations we’ve encountered, not made any easier because the corrugations are mountains of sands... meaning that you soon lose traction and have to walk. In the first hour, Chris covered a little over 8km, drinking 2.5L of water in the same time due to the ridiculous humidity. Even then, it felt like he’d sweated out much much more! It was about this time that Jon went past, allowing Chris to give him the big heavy locks he’d been carrying and the chance to restock his water. A couple touring the Cape who we have now seen on 3 occasions also passed, stopping for moral support and to tend to Chris old wounds (after a few hours of sweat and sand his knee and elbow scabs weren’t looking too healthy apparently!). It was also suggested to deflate the tyres even further to assist with scaling the sand.

Chris continued on, but things didn’t improve. He called home (thanks to the Satellite Phone from Epirbhire.com.au ... don’t ever come up here without one!!!)  to check the status of the night’s accommodation and the moral support was just what the doctor ordered and he was soon back on the bike... and low and behold the sandy corrugations also soon ended! This allowed Chris to perform the time trial of his life... 45km, sandy and gravel roads, an undulating profile, 50kg of gear, stifling humidity and all covered in a little over 2 hours... even Jon was shocked to see him so soon when he pulled into the Jardine River Ferry a little after 2pm!

Interestingly, about 5km prior to the JRF, Chris was passed by the two dirt bikers he had warned about the fire on the OTT the previous day. They waved him down for a chat and said the smoke was unbearable and the visibility was limited to 5m, with the real threat they would have to get off the bikes to avoid smoke inhalation. It certainly vindicated the decision we had made to turn back as the riders said it would have been impossible for us at the speeds we would have been travelling!

Anyway, the JRF has a bad reputation... this probably happens when you charge cars $88 to cross a 12m wide river!! Fortunately, from chatting to the operator, Jon had managed to have the cost waived on account of the blokes efforts. Chris took the opportunity to smash a diet coke and 3 paddle pops, before the two of them grabbed the ferry (Jon having organised a lift to Seisia with the dirt bike riders and their support vehicle).

Chris continued on, pleased that these roads were much better than earlier in the day (albeit still painfully slow goat tracks by normal standards) and managed to push himself to the limit, arriving at Seisia about 5.50pm. A huge and difficult day, leaving him exhausted but with a very rewarding feeling.

Another great feeling was when Jon told him he’d organised a night at the pub (this area is a dry area so alcohol can’t be bought). Unfortunately, we soon found out that the said pub was 3km away and with neither of us in a state to walk there, we settled for the local fish chips and some iced teas... before coming home to successfully fix Jon’s bike.

A sleepless night awaits, as we set off tomorrow morning for the final 35km(ish) to Cape York... and to think only 37 days ago we were at the southernmost point! Here’s hoping we can get a lift back... to the Bamaga Pub!