Day  38                                  Seisia  to Cape York

Distance:                             35.09km

Av speed:                            15.5 km/h

Total Elevation:                  256m

Calories:                              1456 per person

Weather:                             Mild (25*C) but windy

Well  after what seemed like an eternity, Day 38 finally rolled around and low and behold we were still on schedule and heading for the Cape!

Given the short ride, we took the liberty of a 730am sleep-in, before finally making tracks a little before 10am.

The road to the Cape was more red corrugated gravel, but knowing that we were nearly there meant we rode over the bumps as if they were mere cushions.

As we closed on the Cape we noticed a significant change in the habitat, with the arid forest being replaced by dense jungle (rainforest even?).

Shortly before noon we hit the ‘end of the road’ so to speak and were left with a ‘mere’ 400m walk to the Tip. Unfortunately, the said walk was over rocky terrain, cautioning one returning tourist to tell us there was no way we would get the bikes there and to leave them at the carpark... clearly she didn’t know the crap we’d been through and that there was no way we wouldn’t be getting a picture of the bikes at the Tip sign!!!

After 38 days, when we arrived at the Tip there was the obvious sense of relief, excitement and pride... but maybe not the unbridled emotion which you’d expect.... at least there were no tears that either of us could see!!

We were fortunate to have the Tip to ourselv es for 45 minutes, giving us ample opportunity to soak in the experien ce and take 300 photos... hopefully there’s one worthy of a picture frame on someone’s mantelpiece!

It was then a matter of jumping back on the bloody bikes and riding the 35km back to Seisia.... hopefully the last km we’ll ever have to do on them!

With time, comes perspective... so in the next day or two we’ll each post our final thoughts (and thankyous) on the trip, so stay tuned, the ride may be complete but there is more blogging to come.

Also for those worried about our return, Verge has done a spectacular job (about her 50^th one of the trip) and arranged for us to stowaway on a freighter from Seisia to Weipa on Thursday so look out Melbourne cause well be back on Saturday!

Day  37                                  Side of the Southern Bypass Road to Seisia (1m)

Distance:                             145.26

Av speed:                            13.2 km/h

Total Elevation:                   854m

Calories:                              4722 per person

Weather:                             Humid and hot (35*C)

After a restless sleep attributable to the rather ordinary campsite (wet sand and little shelter from the wind and rain), we woke at 5am and managed to have breakfast and the tents packed away by 6.15am... a positive start to the day.

At the 20km mark, Chris stopped and waited for Jon for the traditional morning break. After 5 and then 10 minutes, Jon didn’t appear... he’d only been a couple of mins back 5km ago! Chris turned the bike around and set off to find him, running into him about 3km down the road... unfortunately Jon was walking... sans bike. Jon’s chain had once again broken and was unable to be fixed, we chatted and made the decision that Jon would hitch to the Jardine River Ferry, wait for Chris and then hitch to Seisia to fix the bike.... making up the lost distance by riding this part of the route later in the week. He might be doing it with a limp however, as his ankle connected with the big ring when his chain snapped, leaving Jon with a nasty and painful wound.

Chris continued on, knowing that he had another  25km to the start of the Northern Bypass Road, 55km to the Jardine River Ferry and a final 50km to Seisia... a long long day, not made any easier given the rising humidity.

Fortunately, soon after recommencing there was 15km of sealed roads, meaning that time was swift and Chris was able to reach the beginning of the NBR by 10.15am. Less fortunately, the NBR has a reputation for some of the worst road conditions on the Cape... and theyre well deserved. By far the worst and hardest corrugations we’ve encountered, not made any easier because the corrugations are mountains of sands... meaning that you soon lose traction and have to walk. In the first hour, Chris covered a little over 8km, drinking 2.5L of water in the same time due to the ridiculous humidity. Even then, it felt like he’d sweated out much much more! It was about this time that Jon went past, allowing Chris to give him the big heavy locks he’d been carrying and the chance to restock his water. A couple touring the Cape who we have now seen on 3 occasions also passed, stopping for moral support and to tend to Chris old wounds (after a few hours of sweat and sand his knee and elbow scabs weren’t looking too healthy apparently!). It was also suggested to deflate the tyres even further to assist with scaling the sand.

Chris continued on, but things didn’t improve. He called home (thanks to the Satellite Phone from Epirbhire.com.au ... don’t ever come up here without one!!!)  to check the status of the night’s accommodation and the moral support was just what the doctor ordered and he was soon back on the bike... and low and behold the sandy corrugations also soon ended! This allowed Chris to perform the time trial of his life... 45km, sandy and gravel roads, an undulating profile, 50kg of gear, stifling humidity and all covered in a little over 2 hours... even Jon was shocked to see him so soon when he pulled into the Jardine River Ferry a little after 2pm!

Interestingly, about 5km prior to the JRF, Chris was passed by the two dirt bikers he had warned about the fire on the OTT the previous day. They waved him down for a chat and said the smoke was unbearable and the visibility was limited to 5m, with the real threat they would have to get off the bikes to avoid smoke inhalation. It certainly vindicated the decision we had made to turn back as the riders said it would have been impossible for us at the speeds we would have been travelling!

Anyway, the JRF has a bad reputation... this probably happens when you charge cars $88 to cross a 12m wide river!! Fortunately, from chatting to the operator, Jon had managed to have the cost waived on account of the blokes efforts. Chris took the opportunity to smash a diet coke and 3 paddle pops, before the two of them grabbed the ferry (Jon having organised a lift to Seisia with the dirt bike riders and their support vehicle).

Chris continued on, pleased that these roads were much better than earlier in the day (albeit still painfully slow goat tracks by normal standards) and managed to push himself to the limit, arriving at Seisia about 5.50pm. A huge and difficult day, leaving him exhausted but with a very rewarding feeling.

Another great feeling was when Jon told him he’d organised a night at the pub (this area is a dry area so alcohol can’t be bought). Unfortunately, we soon found out that the said pub was 3km away and with neither of us in a state to walk there, we settled for the local fish chips and some iced teas... before coming home to successfully fix Jon’s bike.

A sleepless night awaits, as we set off tomorrow morning for the final 35km(ish) to Cape York... and to think only 37 days ago we were at the southernmost point! Here’s hoping we can get a lift back... to the Bamaga Pub!

123.8km. 

Started old Telegraph track before turning back due to bushfires. 

Now on bypass road, very rough, 140km tomorrow. 

2 days from the tip.

Day  36                                  Moreton Telegraph Station to side of the Southern Bypass Road (130m)

Distance:                             124.11km

Av speed:                            11.2 km/h

Total Elevation:                   590m

Calories:                              3886 per person

Weather:                             Warm 30*c

Having enjoyed an amazing meal courtesy of our very friendly and supportive hosts, Brett and Kathy, we woke at 5.30am with the intention of getting an early start.

As the sun rose around 6.15am, we prepared to set off, only to find that Jon’s yak wheel had deflated over the night. Making the necessary change, we were soon heading off towards the front gate... when the spare tube also deflated. Reviewing the tyre we diagnosed a split and made use of the spare kiddy bike tyre which Chris had carried in the bottom of his trailer for the last 36 days... it was kind of rewarding to actually use it in the end!

We then headed off on more undulating red gravel roads for the Bramwell Junction and the start of the Old Telegraph Track. About 5km from the Junction we passed more wildfires by the side of the road and ascending a large hill we could see a significant bushfire up ahead.

We stopped briefly at the Bramwell Junction Roadhouse to stock up on sandwiches for lunch and Chris took the chance to ask the lady behind the counter as to whether the bushfire would impact on the Old Telegraph Track. “Nah itwould have went through the OTT last night” was the response. So Chris pointed behind the fire and asked if that was the direction the OTT took. “Nah it goes that way (pointing in front of the fire)”. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... slightly concerning!!

We took off to see how it looked and managed to complete the first 5km in a little under 45 minutes... this included two amazing river crosses which boggled the mind as to how a 4x4 drive would get down and then up the banks! At this point we were passed by some motorists who said that the OTT was awash with flame and smoke further up and it would be unwise to continue. We quickly discussed it and made the difficult (but correct) decision to turn back. We made sure we warned some dirt bikers as they sped past us. Interestingly, as we rode the 5km back to the Junction, huge amounts of track had been burned in the previous 45 minutes since we’d first past!

After again refuelling, we set off from the Roadhouse on the Southern Bypass Road. The Bypass Roads are much longer and less direct, designed to avoid all the obstacles which the OTT provides... in other words, a nice route for all the grey nomads and their caravans! Ironically, the Bypass Roads (over 230km) have a terrible reputation for corrugation and sand, meaning that for us it wouldn’t really be any easier than the OTT... and also longer.

We set ourselves the target of knocking over 70km before dark (a great result given the 2 hours we’d earlier lost) and found a place to camp by the side of the road. The wind howled and there was steady rain throughout the night.

82km, short day.

Jon saw a Monitor Lizard. 

At Moreton Telegraph Station tonight. 

Heading to famous old telegraph track tomorrow - crazy 4 wheel drive roads. 

48 hours until arrive at Northern most town in Australia.

Day  35                                  Side of road 110km north of Coen to Moreton Telegraph Station (185m)

Distance:                             75.88km

Av speed:                            13.7 km/h

Total Elevation:                  205m

Calories:                             2008 per person

Weather:                             Warm 30*c

Knowing that we had a *shortish* day ahead of us, but that two very tough and long days into Seisa followed,  we made an early start with the hope of being able to use the afternoon to get some R+R.

As we rode past the Weipa turnoff a little after 830am, we saw the two other cycle tourers whose tracks we have seen in the sandy roads the last few days. It turns out they are Austrians, one of whom lives in Mount Garnet (we passed through there about 12 days ago now.... so long ago!) and theyre also riding up to the Tip... albeit at a much more leisurely speed!

Today’s terrain was much like the last few days, with red gravelly roads and light timber forests. Interestingly, we passed through a few burnt out areas today, some of which were still smouldering. We’re unsure whether they were planned burns, however, we’re glad they weren’t blazing when we were passing by!

The only real moment of interest of the day came when Jon spotted a ‘big 1m lizard’... shocked that such things exist! Fortunately, Chris put him right on all things Monitor Lizards... just another Aussie creature that can give you a nasty bite!

About 1pm we arrived at the Moreton Telegraph Station, where our hosts have spoilt us with a comfortable permatent and promises of Spaghetti Bolognese for dinner! If only all our stops were like this!!

Tomorrow we head off to tackle the Old Telegraph Track, a well known 4x4 mecca and one of the toughest roads to navigate in Australia. It will no doubt be a huge challenge, but we hope the thought that we could be in Seisa within 48 hours will give us the energy and willpower to get the job done in just two days!

Day  34                                  Coen to side of the road 110km north of Coen

Distance:                             110.65km

Av speed:                            12.5 km/h

Total Elevation:                  640m

Calories:                             3281 per person

Weather:                             Warm 30*c

Unsure of the roads ahead of us, we woke early and had a hearty breakfast of spaghetti and scrambled eggs courtesy of our hosts, the Exchange Hotel. Karl Stefanovic also took the time to remind us it was the start of spring and the first day of September... technically the third month UpUnder 2011 has spanned!!

We can’t thank the guys at the Exchange enough.... they fed us, housed us, gave us gifts and donations... a very generous bunch of people and a great place to stay. Get yourself there one day!

To our great delight, the first 22km of roads were actually sealed! Wooohoo... only 43km of the horrible roads people had been telling us about!

As we suspected, it turns out the roads were horrible for cars but not for bikes. Always able to find a small line of rock or gravel amongst the sand, we found the going easy and were pleasantly surprised with the terrain. It was also reasonably flat, meaning we made good time. The only weird occurrence were two blokes driving up behind us in a Rav4, taking zillions of pictures and videos of us, before then turning around and driving back where they came from... w-e-i-r-d!

Shortly after noon we arrived at the Archer River Roadhouse, 65km north of Coen. Arriving first, Chris ordered himself an Archer Burger (Hamburger, pineapple, beetroot, bacon, onion, lettuce, tomato and bbq sauce) and apple pie and icecream to carbo load for the remainder of the day! He also spotted the local copper who had passed them earlier in the day and asked whether he’d oblige in putting the wind up Jon for not wearing his helmet. Of course, he jumped at the chance!

As Jon rolled into the roadhouse with his helmet around the handlebars, the cops rolled out, lights and sirens blazing, pulling the poor pom over and threatening a $100+ fine. With customs officers also at the roadhouse, they were also brought into it, requesting passports and bag checks. Everyone at the roadhouse (well except Jon) had a good laugh and it was a nice relaxing break before we went back out onto the road. Although, the light natured humour was nearly spoiled by the roadhouse owner who seeing the power exerted by the police, figured he’d get in on the act and had quite a weird tanty about Chris parking his bike inside the fenceline against a palm tree... seemed like the logical place to everyone else but this bloke!

Knowing we’d be camping out, we took the opportunity to load up with 10L+ of water, meaning that our speeds dropped after the break, due to the added weight and undulating territory.

Around 430pm, with the Weipa turnoff  only a few km up the road if we got into trouble, we found a nice sheltered area to pitch our tents about 100m in from the road. Notwithstanding the thousands of rocks and downward slope, it was a pleasant spot to spend the night.

Day  33                                  Musgrave Roadhouse to Coen

Distance:                             108.23km

Av speed:                            12.2km/h

Total Elevation:                  871m

Calories:                             3374 per person

Weather:                             Mild start (mid 20s) before warming up later in the day (mid 30s)

Fortunately today we had the opportunity to kick start the day’s carbo loading with a hearty breakfast at the Roadhouse – weetbix, cornflakes, toast and drinks.

We were soon reacquainted with our old friend ‘the Great Dividing Range’. This time it was again kinder to us than our three previous meetings, having only one 3km climb of 8%, before spending the day on undulating roads.

It was also our first encounter with the deep corrugated sand weve been warned about and to our surprise we found we were generally able to ride through it by dropping the gearing and maintaining a straight steering line. We only hope this holds out over the coming 5 days, as we have heard mixed reviews of the roads which await us... some saying  its the worst its ever been, others saying its better than usual... given they appear to be such subjective opinions and none of these people have done it on a mountain bike, who really knows!

Our only problem for the day was Jon’s chain getting stuck between his granny and middle ring, fortunately applying a Macgyver technique of a rock and brute force, Chris was able to get it loose.

As the day progressed the weather warmed and we were pleased when we finally arrived at Coen shortly after 330pm.

Weve spent the afternoon buying groceries for the coming days and servicing the bikes, before heading to the Exchange Hotel (where Cornelia Rau was found fyi Aussies) for a feed.

We’ve changed plans for tomorrow and will not be attempting the 189km to Moreton Telegraph Station. Rather we’ll split that day in two and camp by the roadside, catching the day back up later in the week by doing Gunshot Creek to Seisia in the one day.

We’re unsure when we’ll next have reception, but stay tuned for the daily 160 digit satellite phone updates!

Day  32                                  Hann River Crossing Campground to Musgrave Roadhouse (103m)

Distance:                             81.03km

Av speed:                            13.1km/h

Total Elevation:                 165m

Calories:                               2075 per person

Weather:                             Hot (41*C)

Having survived the river camping ground with no sightings or signs of crocodilians being present, we set off early 730am with the hope of having another short day, to give ourselves some time to unwind and relax in preparation for difficult days ahead of us.

Luck appeared to be on our side as the first 15km of the day were the subject of significant roadworks, meaning that what would usually be a big sandy mess was actually a nicely graded and compact ‘road’ for us to dart along.

However, with the mercury soon rising above 40, the riding difficulty increased as we headed into the Nifold Plains. Only 10km inland from the ocean (though you wouldn’t guess it), the Nifold is a vast grassland with a healthy splattering of termite mounds. If it wasn’t for its inhabitants, it would have been an enjoyable experience!

Ahhhh.... the inhabitants. First, Chris was riding along close to the shoulder to avoid the deeper corrugated sand, when he turned a corner and saw a Brown Snake, with upper body raised and about to head across his path. Too late to react, he wet himself and jerked his left foot to the top of the pedal stroke.... crossing paths within 1m of the snake, Chris was relieved to see the snake was as scared as he was and darted back into the grasslands. Then when Chris went to tell Jon about it, Jon ushered him to the side of the road, having seen another Brown on the opposite shoulder. Here’s hoping our snake charming days are behind us!

The rest of the day’s ride to the Musgrave Roadhouse was flat and gravelly.... in other words, nothing too exciting! With the warm temperatures and little shade, our Champion Systems summer clothes were perfect for protecting us from the harsh sun... the summer sleeves are brilliant for keeping your arms out of the sun, without finding yourself overheating!

We were pleased to arrive at the Roadhouse shortly after 130pm, giving us plenty of time to eat, rest out of the sun and relax. Chris spent the time watching Source Code (a pretty average movie), whilst Jon used it to call home.

Later in the afternoon we befriended four blokes who were also staying the night at Roadhouse – Jim, Alan, Zap and Butch. Four hours later we’d shared many beers and laughs, thoroughly enjoying being able to relax around new friends and not have to think or discuss our bloody bikes!l A true highlight of the trip... plus for those who’ve always said that XXXX is like drinking water, you might be onto something, as we woke up the least dehydrated we’ve been in days!

Day  31                                  Old Laura Campground to Hann River Crossing Campground (12m)

Distance:                             86.27km

Av speed:                            11.2kmh

Total Elevation:                  109m

Calories:                             2001 per person

Weather:                             Hot (40*C)

After a restless night from intruders in our camp making all kinds of loud noises (cows, pigs and birds), we had a quick breakfast, grabbed water from the creek (we were told its drinkable!) and made tracks before 8am.

Fortunately today was a rather simple and pleasant day by our standards. Whilst the temperatures were especially warm, we had no mechanicals or major problems. The roads continued to be undulating and a mixture of gravel/sand.

The highlight of the day were the good samaritans who stopped us and gave us cold! tim-tams and paw paw by the side of the road... if only everyone who passed us was this kind.

With such a short day and pleasant cycling conditions, we arrived at the Hann River Crossing shortly after 3.30pm, giving us plenty of time to go for a wash in the creek (one person keeping a lookout for salties), before settling into our tents shortly after 6pm!

We soon found out that it doesn’t get very cold of an evening up here and we spent the majority of the night sweating and dehydrating ourselves in our tents!! Fortunately, we’re not having the same problems with dehydration during the days, as were able to prepare ourselves Infinit Nutrition sports drinks each morning, which we can then sip on during the day to keep our fluids, vitamins and minerals up.

Day  30:                                Cooktown to Old Laura Campground @ Lakefield NP (54m)

Distance:                             124.72km

Av speed:                            11.1kmh

Total Elevation:                  1078km

Calories:                             4095 per person

Weather:                             Hot (37*C)

With the best intentions of having an easy day, we woke at 6am despite being exhausted from yesterday’s efforts.

Once on the road, we set about looking for the turnoff to Lakefield NP which we had seen yesterday. Unfortunately, it turns out this turnoff is only sign posted as you’re going into town. Furthermore, when your heading from town about 250m after the turnoff is a big sign which talks about Lakefield, Coen, Weipa and Cape York and sets out if the roads are open. So, given that sign was ahead of us... we continued on.... for about 8km. Then we realised something was up and turned around and rode back. A very very annoying mistake! Although were sceptical whether it was really our fault!!!

Once on the right route, we travelled for 35km on sealed roads, finding a grocery shop at the end of it. That was pretty much the end of the luxury and we soon found ourselves crossing the Great Dividing Range again. Fortunately, each of the three times its gotten easier... but we’re well and truly over it by now!

This time it was made harder by the gravel and sandy roads, meaning that with each dip we weren’t able to build up the necessary speed to have a free ride up hill.... plus Chris was excessively cautious after yesterday’s spill.

As the day went on it got hotter and hotter and we were glad we had carried plenty of water with us, despite knowing we would be able to drink from the river at camp.

Jon also had the ‘joy’ of spotting the first snake of the trip. He tells Chris it was brown so we’ll take a stab that it was  a Brown Snake.

Later in the day as we descended the GDR, the road became like a roller coaster... repeated 5m inclines and 5m declines. With deep sand it was a treacherous road and Jon found himself on the deck on a couple of occasions.... fortunately at the speed we were travelling the sand was like a mattress.

 We finally arrived at Old Laura Campground at 6pm, using the last bit of light to have a wash in the river before scrambling to put the tents up.  We were then joined by our ‘neighbours’ Ashley and Khyalla who entertained us, gave us some tins of soup and built us a fire... what a welcome!

Tomorrow we have bout 90km ahead of us, with very sandy roads, meaning it will be another tough day. After being very sore in the hips from yesterday’s spill, Chris hopes the terrain certainly isn’t as hilly!!

Day  29:                                Cape Tribulation to Cooktown (3m)

Distance:                             105.93km

Av speed:                            8.7kmh

Total Elevation:                  1565m

Calories:                             4039 per person (but it didn’t take into account the 4hrs of pushing!!)

Weather:                             Hot (36*C)

After a quick breakfast of 2-minute noodles, we hit the road shortly after 7am... knowing that the first 33 kilometres would take in the dreaded ‘Bloomfield Track’... a road so steep and rough that many 4x4s make their best effort to avoid it.

Within 4km we were off the bikes and pushing them up a hill of over 15%!! Having changed the tyres we were cursing all the extra rolling resistance. You really can’t imagine how tough and difficult it was, we were barely able to push the combined weight of the bike and yak trailers (50kgs) more than a few metres before we were exhausted and needed a break. It didn’t help that we were in the middle of a tropical rainforest and the heat and humidity were stifling.

Unfortunately, about 10km later we hit another longer and steeper section. Only 2km, it was in excess of 20% and required all our strength to make it to the top before we enjoyed the downhill... until....

We hit the most famous section of the Bloomfield Track... an absolutely vicious 3km stretch with gradients over 25%. It was purgatory. Hell on earth. A place you never ever want to be on a bike... let alone one with a 35kg+ trailer behind you. It took Chris over  1hr and 30 minutes to lug his bike up that stinking hill. At one point he couldn’t even grip the road with his cycling shoes because he was getting down so low to push, so he resorted to doing it in his socks!

Having both ridden Death Road in Bolivia, we thought we’d experience the worst in hairy descents....well what comes up must come down and riding down the loose gravel slopes of 25% was one of the scariest things youll ever do on the bike. With both disc brakes fully applied, you were still moving and fearful that the Yak trailer would jack knife behind you.

About 5km from the aboriginal settlement at the end of the Track, a passing 4x4 told Chris that Jon had broken his chain and stopped to repair it... then about 5km later, Jon appeared in a ute and advised the spare had also broken and he would get a lift to the’ Lions Den’ up the road (about 50km) to fix it and await Chris’s arrival.

At this time, it had taken Chris 4hrs and 30 minutes to ride a mere 33km. Yep – less than 8kmh!!

It turned out it was possibly the best bit of bad luck Jon’s ever had. For the next 3 hours Chris suffered in the searing heat and humidity, riding over gravel/rocky undulating roads and getting blasted by 4x4 dust.  Exhausted from the earlier efforts pushing the bikes over the hills, sunburnt from his sunscreen continually sweating out and finding it physically impossible to replace the fluids he was losing, it was probably one of the darkest places he’s ever been to, but knowing the support we’ve had from everyone was about the only thing that kept him going.

Of course, the undulating road soon turned into another monster hill. The sign said 10%, but given it was posted at 2km long (but measured at over 3km on the Garmin), it could very well have been steeper.... it felt like it. The only bit of respite was when a cool old hippie bloke stopped to chat as he was riding down the hill on a girls bike and in his thongs... a very cool cat!

Fatigued and exhausted Chris stopped at the top of the hill to repair his left cleat as his shoe was getting stuck in the pedal and was unable to release.... a very very very fortunate decision given that...

10km later, having completed the descent and riding on small undulating roads, Chris was riding over a river causeway when his yak trailer hit a pot hole...it went left, it went right... sent the bike into a wobble... Chris darting left to right like a moguls skier... before the inevitable happened... one big massive tumble.

The most scared he’s ever been on the bike given there were at least 2 seconds during which the fear of a crash was able to play through his mind, Chris hit the gravel on his left hand side and slid for a good 4 to 5 metres... measured by the water trail from the sliding water bottles! Dazed, confused and in shock, he lay on the ground for ten seconds as the fear of broken bones or mechanical problems entered his mind... could this be the end of the road for the trip? Gingerly arising, collarbones, ankles and limbs were checked... all sore, bruised and already swelling, but none appearing broken. What might have happened to the left ankle if the cleat repair hadn’t been made is something Chris doesn’t want to think about!!

After a passing truckie figured Chris was okay, four 4x4 stopped and realised he was in shock.... tending to his wounds with some water, holding his bike and just generally being supportive. God bless the lot of them. One guy was adamant they should give him a lift, but Chris wasn’t buying it... not sure if common sense prevailed!

After  a false start where the rear derailleur was unhinged, he was back up on the bike and riding to meet Jon. Sharing a quick bite to eat, they then set off for the 25km to Cooktown.

Surprisingly, after everything thrown at us, we arrived a little after 6pm but before dark!! Wendy at the Cooktown Holiday Park was amazing and raided the first aid kit for supplies. We were also fortunate that some neighbouring campers were intrigued by our journey and asked us to join them for dinner, which was just what the doctor ordered; enjoyable food and company... a pity we couldn’t stay longer!

Chris then limped off to emergency to have his wounds cleaned and dressed, requiring 4 big patches and a shoutout of thanks to Nurse Rebecca. Meanwhile Jon serviced the bikes and fixed the problems arising from the spill.

Tomorrow we head off into the Lakefield NP and wont have reception for a few days. Using the satellite phone we will send through some 160 digit updates for you all, but rest assured, we’ll upload the full analysis as soon as we can. After such an action packed day today, we’re looking for a quiet day or two anyway!!!

Day  28:                                Cairns to Cape Tribulation (1m)

Distance:                             135.87km

Av speed:                            14.1kmh

Total Elevation:                  777m

Calories:                             4363 per person

Weather:                             Warm (28*C)

Having enjoyed three days of ‘bludging’, it was back to reality as we set off at 6:30am for the 130km+ trek to Cape Tribulation. Fortunately, the early start meant that we missed the majority of the peak hour traffic and we weren’t troubled on the roads.

Within an hour we entered the World Heritage Area of the Captain Cook Highway..... 19km of winding coastal roads with wonderful scenery – steep vegetated cliffs, golden sandy beaches and islands. Just before the Port Douglas turnoff we passed two French cycling tourists – carting panniers and kids in trailers... bizarre and what seemed like way too much effort for a family holiday!

The road then turned inland as we headed to the Cape Tribulation River Ferry via Mossman (thanks to the cafe for the discounted goods!). It was at this time that we found ourselves amongst endless sugar cane fields (cue Jimmy Barnes singing), many of which were being harvested as we rode past. The cut cane is then deposited in little railway carts, which are buzzed around by novel little yellow locomotives.

We were stoked to only be charged a $1 for the 80m ferry crossing and hope that the people at Jardine’s River treat us similarly next week... apparently its $88 per car there and the river is only about 30m wide!

After crossing the ferry we found ourselves riding through the Daintree Rainforest before climbing a very very sharp hill. Whilst only 3km long, it took longer than expected as we waited 25 minutes for roadworks to be completed, giving the lollipop man 25 minutes to hang it on us about how crazy we are. He didn’t have many kind words for the hills we’ll be riding up tomorrow (20 – 25% gradients!!!) so it could be a long day in the saddle. Fortunately at the top of the range there was a World Heritage Area lookout and we took the chance to admire the view and grab some shots.

The last 25km to Cape Tribulation continued through the rainforest, the highlight being the two cassowaries which crossed about 5m behind Chris... giving him some concern that he might cop a deadly headbutt!

We’re enjoying the beautiful Cape Tribulation at the local campground, about 20 metres back from Myall Beach. The awesome team at Cape Tribulation Camping have even hooked us up with a permanent tent!!

After lugging the dead weight on our trailers today, weve now switched over the tyres and inner tubes on the bikes. Gone are the slicks, replaced by big fat knobbies – which should see us setting a very gentle pace on the climbs tomorrow! We’re also doing away with the bog standard inner tubes and upgrading to super heavy duty slime filled ones – here’s hoping they do their job and punctures are a thing of our past!

Day  27:                                Cairns (1m)

Staggering into our luxury apartment a little after 1am, the start of Day 27 was a little hazy. Not so, the headache we awoke to later that morning!

Going our separate ways for the morning, we went and bought kilos and kilos of food  (we use the term ‘food’ very loosely...muesli bars, weetbix and dehydrated meals) which we’ll need to carry with us for the next 11 days. Whilst there are a couple of roadhouses in the Cape, we figure it's safer if we set off with the majority of the food we’ll need in case we strike any emergencies. Packing our little trailers again might prove difficult however with all the items we’ve added!

At 1pm we met Rob and Wendy again for a short but enjoyable lunch, before heading off to The Bike Man to pick up the steeds.  As we’d been made aware earlier in the day, the bikes had arrived in Cairns in pretty ordinary condition and so we’ll be rolling out with new chains and cassettes, as well as Jon having a rebuilt back wheel (with stronger spokes we hope!!!). We can’t thank the team at The Bike Man enough for all their efforts, especially given the amount of work we left them with and the very little time they had to do it! Fingers crossed our bike problems will now be at an end.

Now its time to pack for the final phase of the journey...

Day  26:                                Prof’s Place near Malanda to Cairns (1m)

Distance:                             77.59km

Av speed:                            17.4kmh

Total Elevation:                  478m

Calories:                             2907 per person

Weather:                             Warm (28*C)

As is now our Wednesday ritual, Chris woke at the sprightly time of 4:30am to conduct another interview with SEN 1116AM, before he jumped back into bed to grab an extra hours sleep.

By 8am, Rob and Wendy had fed us and chauffeured us back to Malanda to start the ‘short’ 70km run into Cairns. Like everyone along the route, Rob and Wendy were wonderful to us and we enjoyed spending our short time with them – so a very big thanks goes out to them!

The first 25km of the day were much like yesterday, underlating hills in the Atherton Tableland. Chris however did spot the first snake of the trip, a python of some sort... of course, it was flat and shrivelled and yet another piece of roadkill.

After about 90 minutes of riding we hit the sign we’d been hanging out for ‘19km of Dangerous Roads’... for us that meant we were about to head back down the Great Dividing Range and 19km of not having to pedal... a huge luxury after 3000km of riding!

Giving each other space to avoid the cars, navigate the sharp turns and prevent the trailers from jack-knifing and sending us over the edge... we were soon descending alone. Luckily, Chris managed to feel his phone vibrate in his pocket and pulled over to check what was up.... a puncture for Jon. Finding a lookout to wait at, Chris spent the time taking photos and eavesdropping on a tourist coach commentary.

About 25 minutes later, Jon arrived but no bike could be spotted... turns out it was in the back of a delivery van further down the road. Jon’s rear derailleur mount had snapped (we’d been aware it was cracked) when he was attending to the puncture and the bike was now unrideable. Fortunately, a passing courier had answered his distressed hitching call and offered to take Jon into Cairns. We said our farewells and continued our separate ways.

The descent was quite spectacular, with broad views down to the valley below. When reaching the bottom of the range, Chris then found himself riding through vast sugar cane plantations... reminding him of Jimmy Barnes standing in a burning one, he was soon singing ‘Working Class Man’ at the top of his lungs.

The last 25km to Cairns were on the busy Bruce Highway and it was interesting to see how little room the drivers were willing to give Chris. This is a little concerning given the busy but narrow coastal road we’ll be riding up on Friday.

We caught up again at the Cairns Esplanade before dropping our bikes off at ‘The Bike Man’ for a much needed service. The afternoon was then spent lounging around the pool and getting some rest.

With Chris’ dad and best friend in town, the night was spent drinking many beers and having many laughs with Bruiser, Mal, Keith and Sars and it was the perfect tonic to rejuvenate the batteries before these coming final days! It was great to see them and we thank them so much for making the effort to come and support us!

Day  25:                                Ravenshoe to Prof’s Place near Malanda (711m)

Distance:                             45.14km

Av speed:                            13.9kmh

Total Elevation:                   661m

Calories:                              1816 per person

Weather:                             Mild (24*C)

So it turns out a short day in the Atherton Tablelands is far from an easy day... whilst we only had 45km to cover, the road went up and down, up and down... meaning that our legs still had quite a workout despite the short time we spent on the bike.

Knowing we had a short day, we rose from our slumber at a lazy 7:15am, before heading to the local bakery where Chris had a breakfast of potato pie and cream buns! With all the climbing we encountered it turned out to be the perfect carbo loading!

Leaving town we were soon climbing gradients of over 7%, heading up above 1050m and passing a number of wind turbines along the way.

Unfortunately, within 10km Jon had suffered a puncture and we were stuck in the cold windy air making the necessary change. We were soon on our way, passing a number of signs identifying cassowary crossings... sadly without actually spotting any of the dangerous birds!

Having become accustomed to being given wide berths by roadtrains, we were dismayed to find that the local truck drivers were not as courteous and a number passed us with only 30-45cm to spare. Although it was likely a combination of the narrow roads and blind crests, it was quite worrying and we hope that we do not encounter it further during tomorrow’s ride to Cairns.

After 25 days and 3000km+, we also passed our first fellow adventure cyclists today – a couple riding south with heavily panniered bikes. As we were descending when we came across them, there was no time to compare war stories, but a friendly yell and wave was shared. Seeing all the weight they’d managed to affix to their bikes also gave us confidence we’d made the right decision in taking Yaks rather than the 7 different pannier bags they appeared to be packing!

At around 12pm we arrived at Malanda to meet Sars’ parents, Rob and Wendy, who then transported us back to the Prof’s farm about 20 minutes from the town. For those wondering, we’ve left the bikes locked up at the Malanda cop shop and will head back there to start out in the morning... don’t fear, no km’s will be missed in the UpUnder 2011 ascent of Australia!!

We have then spent the afternoon and evening enjoying Rob and Wendy’s company and food (not to mention the generous servings of fine german beer), which has proven to be an enjoyable ‘rest’ day. The techies may be interested to know that the Prof’s farm is solely powered by solar and hydro energy, so Rob has been entertaining us with his newfound knowledge of renewable energy!

With such amazing hospitality and food it will be difficult to depart in the morning (we can’t thank Rob and Wendy enough for another amazing break from the long lonely roads), but it will help to know that this time tomorrow we’ll be in Cairns readying ourselves for the final (and most difficult?) stage of our journey.

Day  24:                                Lynd Junction to Ravenshoe (915m)

Distance:                             209.36km

Av speed:                            16.2kmh

Total Elevation:                   1662m

Calories:                              7143  per person

Weather:                             Mild (26*C)

Rising at 5:15am in order to get an early start, we chowed into our remaining Weetbix (a lazy 8 each) and some 2-minute noodles, before setting off in the dark shortly after 6am.

The road for the first 30km was a single lane bitumen road and we were careful to jump off the road and into the gravel at the first sound of any passing road trains.

By 8am the road was beginning to gradually climb and we soon found ourselves up out of the saddle for the first time since Victoria... it appears this is a requirement for any successful crossing of the Great Dividing Range.

Before noon we had increased our elevation by over 450m and had commenced a descent back down to 500m above sea level. This was quite annoying, as we knew our destination – the Tully Falls Hotel – was 915m above sea level, so we were going to have to reclimb the difference again later in the day.

Shortly after our lunch break at 125km, the ‘regain’ of the lost metres commenced. Unfortunately, rather than one long steady climb, it was in the form of 20+ up and downs... with each ‘up’ becoming longer and steeper.

This continued for upwards of 50km, to the point where we queried whether we’d survive any more vicious rollercoasters. After a short break at 4:45pm, we set off for the last 30km and were pleasantly surprised that the final 200m of altitude was generally gained via a gradual climb, rather than more vicious undulations. It was also inspiring to pass through all the signs highlighting the WWII regiments stationed in these areas, which helped remind us how our suffering compared in the big scheme of things.

After 210km and over 1600m of climbing, we finally arrived at the Tully Falls Hotel – the highest pub in QLD – shortly before 7pm. An amazing effort given the circumstances and possibly our proudest moment yet.

 We’ve spent the night unwinding eating some ripper food (a sensational Guinness Pot Pie) and chatting to the friendly owners, Brendan and Selina. Knowing we only have 40km tomorrow to meet Sars’ parents means weve also been able to enjoy some XXXX and Bundy too!

Apparently the Prof’s farm doesn’t have phone reception, so once again youll have to wait 48 hours until our next blog...hopefully there won’t be too much which can go wrong in 40km anyway!