Day  29:                                Cape Tribulation to Cooktown (3m)

Distance:                             105.93km

Av speed:                            8.7kmh

Total Elevation:                  1565m

Calories:                             4039 per person (but it didn’t take into account the 4hrs of pushing!!)

Weather:                             Hot (36*C)

After a quick breakfast of 2-minute noodles, we hit the road shortly after 7am... knowing that the first 33 kilometres would take in the dreaded ‘Bloomfield Track’... a road so steep and rough that many 4x4s make their best effort to avoid it.

Within 4km we were off the bikes and pushing them up a hill of over 15%!! Having changed the tyres we were cursing all the extra rolling resistance. You really can’t imagine how tough and difficult it was, we were barely able to push the combined weight of the bike and yak trailers (50kgs) more than a few metres before we were exhausted and needed a break. It didn’t help that we were in the middle of a tropical rainforest and the heat and humidity were stifling.

Unfortunately, about 10km later we hit another longer and steeper section. Only 2km, it was in excess of 20% and required all our strength to make it to the top before we enjoyed the downhill... until....

We hit the most famous section of the Bloomfield Track... an absolutely vicious 3km stretch with gradients over 25%. It was purgatory. Hell on earth. A place you never ever want to be on a bike... let alone one with a 35kg+ trailer behind you. It took Chris over  1hr and 30 minutes to lug his bike up that stinking hill. At one point he couldn’t even grip the road with his cycling shoes because he was getting down so low to push, so he resorted to doing it in his socks!

Having both ridden Death Road in Bolivia, we thought we’d experience the worst in hairy descents....well what comes up must come down and riding down the loose gravel slopes of 25% was one of the scariest things youll ever do on the bike. With both disc brakes fully applied, you were still moving and fearful that the Yak trailer would jack knife behind you.

About 5km from the aboriginal settlement at the end of the Track, a passing 4x4 told Chris that Jon had broken his chain and stopped to repair it... then about 5km later, Jon appeared in a ute and advised the spare had also broken and he would get a lift to the’ Lions Den’ up the road (about 50km) to fix it and await Chris’s arrival.

At this time, it had taken Chris 4hrs and 30 minutes to ride a mere 33km. Yep – less than 8kmh!!

It turned out it was possibly the best bit of bad luck Jon’s ever had. For the next 3 hours Chris suffered in the searing heat and humidity, riding over gravel/rocky undulating roads and getting blasted by 4x4 dust.  Exhausted from the earlier efforts pushing the bikes over the hills, sunburnt from his sunscreen continually sweating out and finding it physically impossible to replace the fluids he was losing, it was probably one of the darkest places he’s ever been to, but knowing the support we’ve had from everyone was about the only thing that kept him going.

Of course, the undulating road soon turned into another monster hill. The sign said 10%, but given it was posted at 2km long (but measured at over 3km on the Garmin), it could very well have been steeper.... it felt like it. The only bit of respite was when a cool old hippie bloke stopped to chat as he was riding down the hill on a girls bike and in his thongs... a very cool cat!

Fatigued and exhausted Chris stopped at the top of the hill to repair his left cleat as his shoe was getting stuck in the pedal and was unable to release.... a very very very fortunate decision given that...

10km later, having completed the descent and riding on small undulating roads, Chris was riding over a river causeway when his yak trailer hit a pot hole...it went left, it went right... sent the bike into a wobble... Chris darting left to right like a moguls skier... before the inevitable happened... one big massive tumble.

The most scared he’s ever been on the bike given there were at least 2 seconds during which the fear of a crash was able to play through his mind, Chris hit the gravel on his left hand side and slid for a good 4 to 5 metres... measured by the water trail from the sliding water bottles! Dazed, confused and in shock, he lay on the ground for ten seconds as the fear of broken bones or mechanical problems entered his mind... could this be the end of the road for the trip? Gingerly arising, collarbones, ankles and limbs were checked... all sore, bruised and already swelling, but none appearing broken. What might have happened to the left ankle if the cleat repair hadn’t been made is something Chris doesn’t want to think about!!

After a passing truckie figured Chris was okay, four 4x4 stopped and realised he was in shock.... tending to his wounds with some water, holding his bike and just generally being supportive. God bless the lot of them. One guy was adamant they should give him a lift, but Chris wasn’t buying it... not sure if common sense prevailed!

After  a false start where the rear derailleur was unhinged, he was back up on the bike and riding to meet Jon. Sharing a quick bite to eat, they then set off for the 25km to Cooktown.

Surprisingly, after everything thrown at us, we arrived a little after 6pm but before dark!! Wendy at the Cooktown Holiday Park was amazing and raided the first aid kit for supplies. We were also fortunate that some neighbouring campers were intrigued by our journey and asked us to join them for dinner, which was just what the doctor ordered; enjoyable food and company... a pity we couldn’t stay longer!

Chris then limped off to emergency to have his wounds cleaned and dressed, requiring 4 big patches and a shoutout of thanks to Nurse Rebecca. Meanwhile Jon serviced the bikes and fixed the problems arising from the spill.

Tomorrow we head off into the Lakefield NP and wont have reception for a few days. Using the satellite phone we will send through some 160 digit updates for you all, but rest assured, we’ll upload the full analysis as soon as we can. After such an action packed day today, we’re looking for a quiet day or two anyway!!!